Molly Yeh's Favorite Places to Eat, Shop and Get Outside in Minnesota
Molly Yeh's Favorite Places to Eat, Shop and Get Outside in Minnesota
By Andrew Parks
Considering she’s the daughter of a Grammy-winning clarinetist (John Bruce Yeh) and studied percussion at Julliard’s prestigious music school, it’s hard to imagine how Molly Yeh went from being on the fast track to hallowed orchestra halls to hosting one of Food Network’s most popular shows (“Girl Meets Farm”).
That is until she explains how she ended up embracing the early days of recipe blogs with her own riffs on Midwestern classics (including quite a few creative takes on hotdish) and her Chinese and Jewish roots (scallion pancake challah, everything bagel mac and cheese).
“One of the things that got me into food was sitting at the back of the orchestra, waiting a really long time for my one cymbal note,” explains Yeh. “It made me very antsy. And since I needed something creative to fill that time, I started thinking about food.”
Her future in East Grand Forks, Minnesota, began to fall into place when Yeh’s husband — Nick Hagen, another Julliard graduate — started thinking about leaving the big city behind for a full-time gig at his family’s sugar beet farm near the North Dakota border. Since her own family is from the Chicago area, Yeh also was eager to recalibrate her life on a personal and professional level.
“I visited Nick’s farm once, took a look around and was like, ‘Yep, this is the place for me,’” says Yeh. “After six years of living that New York lifestyle, we thought, ‘You know what? I think we’re ready to embrace our inner homebodies and be closer to our families.’”
She continues, "Living here has been as inspiring and energizing as I’d dreamt it would be.”
No kidding. Aside from running the popular site My Name is Yeh, writing several best-selling cookbooks (“Molly on the Range,” “Home Is Where the Eggs Are”) and starring in 12 seasons of “Girl Meets Farm,” Yeh has finally unveiled her first family affair: Bernie’s, an East Grand Forks café named after the couple’s daughter (Bernadette), Hagen’s great-great grandpa (Bernt, a Norway native who founded the family farm) and Yeh’s great grandpa (Bernard).
Now that she’s been an honorary Minnesotan for more than a decade, we thought we’d ask Yeh what some of her favorite spots are throughout the state, starting in her adopted hometown.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT IN EAST GRAND FORKS
We have some great restaurants near Bernie’s. The Blue Moose has a walleye sandwich I really like. And Mike’s Pizza is thin, crispy and cut into little squares. There are a couple of places in Chicago that do a very similar thing — crunchy, cracker-y crust pizza that’s underrated compared to deep dish. Since the slices are so small, you can eat more of them.
My taste has changed so much over the years, especially when it comes to certain textures, but I’m a when-in-Rome type of person. If I’m in New York, I’m getting a New York slice of pizza. And if I’m in Chicago, I am getting the deep dish. Here, I’m all about leaning into the square-cut, crusty style of pizza for sure.
WHERE TO SHOP FOR SPECIALTY FOOD
Hugo’s is actually pretty awesome. They have a pretty extensive selection of ingredients and local specialties like lefse, lutefisk and Swedish pearl sugar. Before I moved here, I had to order that online; here, it’s at the grocery store down the street.
Whenever I’m developing recipes for my cookbooks, I like to only use ingredients that I can find easily, whether it's in my local grocery store or something I could find easily online. The concept there is, ‘If I can find it easily, then anybody in America can.’
THINGS TO DO IN BEMIDJI
We love to go to Bemidji every summer. There are some great places there we always return to, like the Minnesota Nice Cafe — the first place I had wild rice pancakes — and Lake Bemidji State Park. I don’t camp, but we like to go on little hikes to work up our appetite.
Our favorite trail is the bog walk; it goes through this really cute swamp area, and it’s not physically difficult at all. It’s perfect for little kids like ours.
For the most part, Bemidji is the perfect getaway for us, where it feels like we’ve driven away from East Grand Forks, but it’s not so far that the kids are going to totally freak out. It’s a really nice mix of stuff to do in nature, and then you can walk around the streets downtown and go to all the little shops there. Chocolates Plus is really tasty, and there’s a co-op which we love (Harmony), and ice cream.
Another place in Bemidji that I absolutely love is a hot dog stand called Lucky Dogs. It’s so good. They have a bunch of different kinds of hot dogs with crazy toppings, and a really good mac and cheese. It’s mostly outdoor seating, too.
We go back to Ruttger’s Birchmont Lodge time and time again. It’s a perfect place for families, and Dave’s Pizza is nearby. They also cut their pizza into little squares, so it’s perfect for leftovers. We’ll put it in the refrigerator at our cabin, and then we’ll have a couple squares late at night.
Bemidji is not overwhelming either. You can get everything you want to get done, done in two days. You don’t have to feel like you need to be there for a while to take it all in. It’s a great summer weekend trip.
MORE PLACES IN MINNESOTA YOU SHOULDN'T MISS
There’s this really great place in Euclid, Minnesota, called One N' Only, which has good ribs and walleye. It’s about 20 or 30 minutes away from us, and in the middle of nowhere — this house in a town of 100 people.
I am obsessed with Northern Waters Smokehaus in Duluth. As a Jew who used to live in New York, their smoked fish is some of the best smoked fish I’ve ever had in my life. I love them. We even use their whitefish at Bernie’s.
One of the best meals I’ve ever had was at Hai Hai in Minneapolis. I dream about their crispy rice salad. It’s incredible. I’m also a big fan of Young Joni. I went there once, right around when it first opened. I think my pizza had broccoli and almonds on it; it was so good.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity. For more recommendations from our favorite Minnesotans, check out our Stars of the North series.