How to Take the Ultimate Great River Road Trip
How to Take the Ultimate Great River Road Trip
By Lisa Meyers McClintick
Minnesota is both the birthplace of America's largest, most legendary river and the scene of its most wild, scenic stretches. Follow the Mississippi’s 565-mile byway across the state, and you’ll have a road trip that encompasses everything from pine-scented northern wilds and resort towns to the state’s tallest skylines and majestic bluffs that towering above Lake Pepin and historic river towns.
Driving the Great River Road is one of Minnesota's most iconic experiences — an essential check on your Minnesota bucket list. (Up for something more epic? The All-American Road/National Scenic Byway can also be conquered by bike, by following the Mississippi River Trail.)
Whether you explore the Great River Road in sections or all at once, here are some of the biggest highlights.
HOP ACROSS THE
MISSISSIPPI HEADWATERS
Mississippi River Headwaters at Itasca State Park / Paul Vincent
To start at the beginning, head 200 miles north of Minneapolis to Itasca State Park, which is a three-and-a-half-hour drive and home to the headwaters of the Mississippi River.
Cross the rocks that mark the start of the Great River as it flows from Lake Itasca or wade into the shallow water as it warms on summer days. Learn how Mary Gibbs fought to protect this land from logging, climb a fire tower for a bird's-eye view, bike or paddle along Lake Itasca, hike the trails, and explore the hands-on exhibits at Jacob Brower Visitor Center.
Dine at the historic Douglas Lodge and spend the night at the park, or find additional choices for resorts along the area’s hundreds of lakes, and more restaurants and hotel rooms at Park Rapids. The popular resort town serves as the southern gateway to the Mississippi with cafes, candy and ice cream shops, cabin decor, and souvenirs for northbound travelers.
POSE WITH
PAUL BUNYAN
Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox stand guard in Bemidji / Paul Vincent
The Mississippi River heads north from Itasca State Park to feed into Lake Bemidji, which anchors the small city like a big blue jewel. Along its southwest shore, stop for a selfie with Minnesota’s iconic Paul Bunyan and his old buddy Babe the Blue Ox.
Head downtown to admire the Bemidji Sculpture Walk, shop for locally made wool blankets at Bemidji Woolen Mills, admire Ojibwe crafts, catch a local production at the art deco Historic Chief Theater, check out hands-on exhibits at the Headwaters Science Center, and browse Watermark Art Center, which includes a gallery dedicated to Indigenous art.
For outdoor fun, rent a bike for a spin along the Paul Bunyan State Trail and follow the lakeshore to Lake Bemidji State Park. The park’s bog-side boardwalk offers a chance to see showy pink lady’s slippers between mid-June and early July, and its beach offers a chance to sunbathe or swim.
Find more Things to Do in Bemidji.
SEE JUDY GARLAND'S
STOMPING GROUNDS
Judy Garland Museum, Grand Rapids
Before she sang “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” in "The Wizard of Oz," Judy Garland graced her father’s theater stage in Grand Rapids, 70 miles east of Bemidji. Visitors can see her childhood home, tour the spacious Judy Garland Museum, and learn about the ruby slipper heist that made national headlines. Combination tickets can include the adjacent Children's Discovery Museum with Northwoods-themed activities, a kid-sized stage, hands-on science and engineering activities.
Forest History Center includes tours of a logging camp, scenic trails and a fire tower for views above the trees. Visitors can also mountain bike single-track trails or scuba dive in a former mine pit at Tioga Recreation Area, pedal the paved Mesabi Trail east to the heart of Minnesota’s Mesabi Iron Range or camp alongside the Mississippi River at Pokegama Recreation Area.
SHRED THE RED IN
THE IRON RANGE
Two mountain bikers take in the scenic Cuyuna landscape / Micah Kvidt
The small towns of Crosby and Ironton anchor the 68-mile Cuyuna Iron Range about 68 miles south of Grand Rapids. Former open mining pits have filled with spring water and forests have grown between them, creating Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area. This outdoor rec hotspot features scuba diving and clear kayaking in mine lakes, trout fishing, the paved Cuyuna Lakes State Trail, and nature-focused lodging at places such as Cuyuna Cove, Red Rider Resort and True North Basecamp.
The biggest draw? Seventy miles of mountain bike trails — everything from gentle practice loops and gravity rolls to "Screamer" trails and epic overlooks that earned the area an International Mountain Biking Association’s silver-level Ride Center™ designation.
Downtown standouts include craft beer at Cuyuna Brewing Company, small-batch lactose-free ice cream and upscale picnic fare at Victual, pizzas on the patio at Iron Range Eatery or sandwiches, lattes and repairs at Red Raven, a combination café and bike shop.
TACKLE THE
TWIN CITIES
Weisman Art Museum / Credit: Chris Cooper
About an hour south of St. Cloud, you’ll reach the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, a national park site that spans 72 miles and goes through the heart of the Twin Cities. Its visitor center can be found at St. Paul’s Science Museum of Minnesota, which includes exhibits on Great River’s cultural and environmental significance. Across the river at Harriet Island, Padelford Riverboats take passengers onto the Mississippi with seasonal narrated tours and fall color cruises.
Heading west toward Minneapolis, visitors can may the boom of cannons across river bluffs at Historic Fort Snelling as costumed interpreters go through drills, and feel the spring rush and cool spray of Minnehaha Falls. On the University of Minnesota campus, sunset turns the Frank-Gehry-designed Weisman Art Museum pink and gold as people bike, run and paddle along the riverfront.
Downtown Minneapolis’s Mill City Museum rises from 1800s ruins, remnants the city’s legacy as the world's bread basket, while the lauded Guthrie Theater cantilevers 178 feet toward the Mississippi River for a one-of-a-kind overlook.
For lodging, the InterContinental St. Paul Riverfront Hotel sits right along the Mississippi.
KEEP IT CRAFTY
IN RED WING
Red Wing Shoes' flagship store and museum / Credit: Paul Vincent
With the 1875 Italianate St. James Hotel and a rich heritage for handcrafted Red Wing Shoes and Red Wing Pottery, this river city about 45 minutes south of St. Paul, has long been a popular getaway for anyone appreciating history and made-in-America products. Museums delve into the stories of Red Wing’s boot-making and pottery crafted from local clay, while shops sell collectible and modern products.
Outdoor lovers can bike the Cannon Valley Trail, picnic or disc golf atop river bluffs with stellar views at Memorial Park, hike up He Mni Can (also known as Barn Bluff) and watch for migrating birds along the Mississippi River Flyway at Colvill Park. Nearby, Treasure Island Resort and Casino offers concerts, boat cruises, an indoor water park, and golf course.
LOOK AT LARK TOYS
AND REGAL EAGLES
The National Eagle Center / Credit: Paul Vincent
Known as the setting for the fictional “Grumpy Old Men” films, Wabasha’s stretch of river 40 minutes southeast of Red Wing attracts winter gatherings of eagles seeking open water for fishing. America’s national bird can be seen year-round from windows at the National Eagle Center or viewed up close, nose-to-beak, during daily encounters with the center’s resident eagles, which complement natural history and cultural exhibits.
LARK Toys encourages both the young and old to reminisce through decades of dolls, model cars, “Star Wars” action figures and more with toy exhibits incorporated into one of the country’s largest specialty toy stores. Leave time to ride the hand-carved carousel with its eclectic and whimsical carvings of a moose, an otter, goldfish and a dragon with a wizard as a sidekick.
Thirty miles south of Wabasha, art lovers thrive in this outdoorsy college town sandwiched between bluffs, Lake Winona and the Mississippi River. Admire world-class paintings and exhibits all related to water at the Minnesota Marine Art Museum, take a historic architecture and stained glass tour through the Victorian-era downtown, or let events such as Beethoven and Shakespeare festivals transport you with music and literature.
BASK IN THE BEAUTY OF
THE GREAT RIVER BLUFFS
A scenic overlook at Great River Bluffs State Park
Foodies can feast on Winona's seasonal cuisine at Nosh, savor fresh bread, pastas and gelato at at Sapori di Sicilia or opt for enduring favorites such as Lakeview Drive Inn and Bloedow’s Bakery. Work up a serious appetite while hiking up to Sugar Loaf Bluff or Garvin Heights (which also driveable), paddling along the Mississippi, or exploring Great River Bluffs State Park 12 miles south of Winona.
You can camp at either the state park or Winona’s Prairie Island Campground, rent one of the area's tiny houses, or find a hotel. An hour’s drive will reach the end of Minnesota’s Great River Road at Iowa’s border.
While on the water or far above it, the Mississippi looks majestic sprawling wide enough for barges and cruise ships, winding its way among islands, and spilling into backwaters that can be as serene as its humble start in northern Minnesota.
Pro-tip: Start in September and follow the fall colors as you drive south.
Lisa Meyers McClintick is an award-winning writer, photographer, author (Day Trips from the Twin Cities), and contributor to USA Today, Minnesota Star Tribune and Midwest Living. She loves exploring the outdoors, small towns, local eateries, and finding farm stands and markets with her family. She’s @minnelisa on Instagram.